Ignition Switch Relocation
By Norman Armstrong
Gadget Note: One universal criticism of the Kawasaki Vulcan Classic/Nomad series is the location of the ignition switch. Hanging up front beside the radiator is just plain unhandy, not to mention being a tank scratcher for those of us who's beltlines may have expanded slightly over the years.
There are commercial fixes for this. Pro-One offers a billet switch re-location option which places the key just in front of the left side cover. Thunder Mfg. offers beautiful relocation ideas putting switches in the center console and on the handle bars. These options can be expensive. Norman has come up with the following option which is all but free. Maybe it's for you!?
More Photos Below
The procedure was fairly simple but for the cutting of the hole through which the switch projects.
The [stock] switch is now mounted on a homemade standoff to an existing frame-mounted fastener. The standoff (which you will make) is simply a 1.5" long section of ½" diameter 6061T6 aluminum round stock (or something similar you can find at any hardware store), center drilled to 0.265" ID. You'll need to buy an m6 x 75mm bolt to mount the switch.
I located the hole in the cover by [lightly] sticking a piece of double-sided foam tape to the end of the [relocated] switch, then pressed the cover firmly against the switch - transferring the tape. I cut a round hole with a hole saw, then ovaled it with a file to accommodate the angle of the cover. There is about 0.050" clearance all around the switch body, which provides enough room to easily remove and re-install the cover in the original fashion (so my tools are still accessible).
The tank must be removed to gain access to the harness. (See Gas Tank Removal) Also, the re-routing of the ignition switch portion of the harness was a little tricky, and required some minor plastic trimming.
All but one of the wires in the harness is long enough to reach the new location. All you have to do is unwrap the electrical tape covering the harness (to allow the ignition bundle to reach the new location) and splice in about 14" for the short one. I soldered and shrink-sleeved the connections, but crimp connectors should work as well. Re-wrap
everything with electrical tape and you're good to go.
Additionally, I moved the choke to the rear cylinder's lower left "coaster" screw (or reed-valve cover screw if you didn't eliminate them). It only required adding one 90 degree bend to the stock choke knob bracket to make it work perfectly.
The Finished Product
Cover Off, Close Up Of Standoff & Longer Bolt
Straight On Shot, Cover Off